Bilbao   Street Plan San Sebastian     Guernica    Back to Regions Page

Of course, strictly speaking, Pais Vasco isn't really 'spanishstuff' as the Basques are a separate nation that spans the Pyranees, with their own language, culture, history and sense of separateness.  However it's part of the Iberian peninsular and surrounded by Spain and hence shares some of its traditions and culture.

BILBAO
Hotels   

A great town that's been spruced up to cover its industrial heart thanks to the new Guggenheim museum (Designed by Canadian Architect Frank O, Gehry).  A trip to Bilbao is worth it for the museum alone - just as well as you can't rely on the weather even in August!  Even if you don't like modern art, expect to be amazed by this titanium coated building and the fantastical interior. Unfortunately no inside photos are allowed.  The art is as diverse as you would expect - a queue to get in always, but it usually moves quite quickly.  Admission:  (open 11-8pm [9pm in July and Aug] but not Mondays).

Go around the third week of August to see Bilbao in party mode and experience the best fireworks every night at 11.00.  This is Aste Nagusia in Euskadi (the Basque language) - buy a neckerchief and feel at home. 

Most people usually stay in pensions in the old town for around 8000 Pesetas (eg Hostal Arana, c/Bidebarrieta 2  - 0034 944156411)  - but don't try this in party week as you won't sleep a wink - they'll be winding down by 7am!.   Instead give the Nervion Hotel a go (Paseo Campo de Volantin, 0034 94 4454700) - it's a business style hotel for around £60 a double just across the funky Zubizuri bridge (Designed by Santiago Calatrava), from the Guggenheim - the money's well spent on the breakfast - as much and as many things as you can eat for breakfast.  It's in much better nick than the much guide-book-recommended Conde Duque next door.

There's a Metro system, stations designed by Norman Foster, but you don't really need it as Bilbao is small enough to walk around.  You might, however, like to take the Euskotren from near Plaza Nuevo out to the coast - get off at Getxo.  The coast is pretty facing away from  Bilbao and the sea is clear blue. 

In Bilbao, take the funicular up to the Basilica de Begona for good views of the city.

Food tends to be a bit expensive (by Spanish rates) in Bilbao - your best bet is to go tapas crawling around the old town.  Don't miss the bread tapas at Victor Montes in the corner of the Plaza Nueva in the old town.

A great weekend destination - check out www.easyjet.com for a cheap flight.  (Ooo, parking is a nightmare in Bilbao if you're coming in from somewhere else with a car - just though I'd mention that!)

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SAN SEBASTIAN

If you want to visit San Sebastian, take the autobus as it's much quicker (45 mins) from the Termibus at Calle Guturby.  San Sebastian (or Donostia in Basque) is known for its huge beaches and gastronomy of the seafood variety - but be prepared to pay gastronomic prices.  Even a plateful of sardines in one of the 'shack' style eateries along the harbour will be expensive compared to elsewhere. 

The beach has a very south of France feel to it - it's long, wide and crowded, with a raised boulevard behind.  The town has plenty of shops and a pleasant main square (for a really expensive G&T!).

GUERNICA

Guernica is the most important city to the Basques; it is home to Basque assembly hall where the council has met for centuries to discuss and decide important Basque issues. The assembly hall is next to the famous oak tree, said to possess magical powers, and where Basques met in ancient times to discuss and solve problems (probably before they had a nice cosy assembly hall!).  Nowadays the tree is more of a stump (although it is 600 years old)  and enclosed within a circle of pillars.  It is the symbol of democracy to all Basques.

There is also a tiled replica of Picasso's painting Guernica, (original in the Prado, Madrid) which represents the terrible day in 1937 when the Nazis razed the town to the ground in a single day with aerial bombing raids that were a practise run for those to come in the Second World War.   Gordon Thomas book, The Day Guernica Died, is a powerful account of that day.  Now sadly out of print, it was published in 1973 by Hodder and Stougnton.

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