| ANDALUCIA |
|
Almeria Granada Sevilla Cordoba Nerja
Jaen Ubeda &
Baeza Cazorla National Park Ronda Back to
Regions Page Home
Airports: MALAGA (AGP) a new terminal building - a 15 min walk from the plane in some cases! Cheapest flights Easyjet and charters. See also Monarch scheduled. Easyrentacar have their offices practically 'on airport' here (well, a 2-3 minute walk), and with prices as low as £9 per day means you can fly here for Seville.
JEREZ - Ryanair.com fly in cheaply from London Stansted.
MURCIA (MJV) - OK, not really Andalucia but easy access into Almeria province. Served by Ryanair.com and charters.
ALMERIA (LEI) - mainly charter flights, usually during the summer months on Thurs & Sun.
GRANADA & SEVILLA - www.Ryaniar.com
Tourist Offices: Granada 958 22 59 90 /
Seville 954 22 14 04 /
Malaga 952 21 34 45 / Cordoba 957 47 12 35
Andalucia tends to be the bit everyone thinks of as 'Spain'. The hottest year-round climate
Food to
try in Andalucia
Fritado de pescado - mixed fried
fish
Gazpacho/Salmorejo - the cold salad soup (Salmorejo is the Cordoban
version and comes up more the consistency of a 'dip' - nice with bread!)
Piquillos - tiny peppers - extra good stuffed with bacalao
(salt cod)
Dulces: the wonderful Tortas de Aceite, beautifully wrapped in
blue and white greaseproof paper, flavoured with fennel. Sevilla is the
sweetie capital of Spain: you can often buy them from convents - mazapan
(marzipan sweets), yemas made from egg yolks, polverones
- a dry (polvo means dust!) shortbread type of cake.
| GRANADA | 
|
Granada is a great place to go shopping! There are
streets and streets of interesting shops to look i
n; but the main reason you will come to Granada is to see the stunning Alhambra Palace and
Generalife gardens. This was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain before they were
finally expulsed in 1492.
Be sure that whatever time of year you go, it will be crowded. Try to buy your ticket in advance: all branches of the BBVA bank sell them or you can buy on line at www.alhambraticket.com . The ticket will be for timed entry to the Nasrid Palace - you can enter the rest of the complex beforehand. If you cannot manage to buy your ticket in advance, arrive as early as you can and buy your ticket at the car park at the Alhambra - it will still be a timed tick and the wait for the Royal Palace could be as much as 3 hours. (Or you could try the alternative strategy of arriving after 16.30 hours.)
The gardens are very beautiful -
superbly kept; the Royal Palace is stunning, with its intricate Mudejar carving and
tranquil patios; the Torre de la Vela in the Alcazaba affords a lovely view of the city
and the mountains. There is a kiosk selling 2 o
r 3 different bocadillos (sandwiches),
as well as cold drinks (both soft and alcoholic) and crisps.
Bars
A recommended bar is La
Sacristia on c/San Matias, 8. A tiny bar reported to be ".. like
the Tardis on the inside .." The owner has covered the walls with
personal religious icons. Recommended
by Pat Aldridge.
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| SEVILLA Hotel/Bars/Restaurants Sights Markets Flamenco Fiesta/Feria |
|
Seville, where the streets are lined with orange trees, home
of Flamenco and tapas!
Seville consists of an old town which contains all the sights and is a pleasure just to
wander, and a mass of residential and industrial suburbs.
Shopping is good along c/Sierpes and the parallel c/Tetuan, and there is a Corte Ingles on Plaza del Duque de la Victoria.
Semana
Santa (the week leading up to Easter) sees fervent activity in
Seville. Numerous solomn processions fill the streets at
all tim
es of day and night. The precious virgins are carried on routes
through the streets by hooded penitents called Nazarenos in
Seville. The most widely adored is La Macarena whose beauty receives
cries of 'Guapa, Guapa' when she is paraded
on Good Friday. The various fraternities of the city wear different
coloured robes - the hoods were
later adopted by the Klu Klux Klan in the USA and can seem sinister because of
this: they have absolutely no connection. If you want to stay in Seville
for Semana Santa, expect to book up a long way in advance and pay twice as much
as normal.
Getting There
Seville
has its own airport, served by the big scheduled airlines (BA, Iberia).
Alternatively you could try a 'no frills' flight into Malaga (Easyjet, Go-fly) and hire a
car. It's around 2 hours' easy drive on toll-free dual carriageway/motorway.
Easyrentacar have their car hire offices at the airport at Malaga, with their lowest price
£9 per day. Parking can be a problem in Seville, so check at the hotel you
book if they have parking (you will often have to pay extra for this.).
You could also fly into Madrid and take the high-speed AVE
train which takes about 2 and a quarter hours.
The strange sign NO8DO that you see everywhere stands for the words "No me ha dejado" (She has not deserted me) spoken by Alfonso the Wise after the city remained loyal to him during a conflict with his son during the Reconquest (13thC). The symbol in the middle is not an eight, but meant to be a skein (as in wool). The Spanish for a skein is madeja, so if you put it together you get something that sounds like the phrase - No (madeja) do. Quaint, eh!
The 2 main sights are the cathedral and the Alcazar palaces. The latter is not to be missed, and not open on Mondays, so plan accordingly.
The catedral and its bell tower named after the weather vane on top
of it (la giradilla) is a popular attraction and hence there is always a big queue.
In high season it will stretch around the building; in low about 100 metres. Around
1.30/2.00 pm it could be smaller as the lunch hour approaches. Opens at 11.00 am
til 5.00 pm Mon-Sat (2.00-4.00 pm Sundays). It sometimes closes on public holidays,
when they post a notice on the door to inform you. Entrance 4.5.
As you pass in through the entrance you will find yourself in Patio de los Naranjos (orange tree patio), which is a pleasant place to linger. You can climb the bell tower for views over Seville: the climb is extraordinarily via slopes instead of stairs - good news for knee sufferers!
The inside of the cathedral itself is absolutely vast (the 3rd largest in Europe after St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London), with the main chapel an orgy of gold and baroque. I don't think I've ever seen quite so much gold in one place!
Don't miss the final resting place of Columbus (Cristobal Colon), his tomb supported by representatives of the four kingdoms of Castille, Aragon, Leon and Navarra.
Alcazares Reales
For my money this sight is
100 times better than the cathedral (so why are the queues often shorter?). The
moorish alcazares (palaces) rival the Alhambra at Granada easily, except for the
gardens, which don't touch the Generalife. It's a delight to wander the many
beautiful patios and salons with their intricate mudιjar detail and azulejos. Many
of the buildings were commissioned to be built within the old moorish palaces by various
kings and queens of Spain. Opening 10.30 - 5.00 pm Tue-Sat (10.00 - 1.00 pm
Sundays). Entrance 4.5 (well spent!)
Other Sights
Take one of the horse and carriages - it
might be touristy, but it's a great way to orientate the sights of the
city. Times and prices vary, but in general it's around 20 for about 45
minutes. Try not to look too keen for the best price!
Plaza de Espaρa & Parque Marνa Luisa
Take a wander in the park with its quirky fountains and then around the semi-circular Plaza de Espaρa with its tiled montages of all the main towns in Spain. They're in alphabetical order, so start at one end and try to guess which town will be at the other!
Plaza de Toros - the Maestranza
Bullfighting is still big here and Seville's ring is
one of the finest in Spain. The season runs from April to October if you want to try
to get tickets for a corrida. If you're not into bullfighting it's still worth
visiting the ring on one of their timed sightseeing tours (3) - the empty
ring is a fairly awesome sight - and it is one of the truly Andalucian sights
with the vivid combination of white, red and yellow - how Spanish can you get?
.
Flea market and pet market
(Sundays)
The flea market takes place on Sunday mornings along Alameda de Hercules and is like a huge carboot sale. The pet market takes place around Plaza del Alfalfa and is packed with people selling puppies, rabbits, birds, fish and rodents. All the animals looked in good condition and I wonder why people find this way of selling animals so much worse than a high street pet shop. Both markets are packed, so hang on to your valuables!
Seville is flamenco, but
unfortunately your chances of seeing an impromptu show in a bar are pretty minimal.
There are plenty of places offering proper shows, with or without dinner.
This sort of show has never been my cup of tea, but as it was Seville we gave one a
go. Although expensive at 45, it was professionally done and the meal was good
with a bottle of wine for 2. The one we went to was at the El Palacio
Andaluz, Avda Maria Auxiliadora 18. Tel 954 53 47 20.
Los Gallos in Plaza de Santa Cruz is a much smaller venue but highly recommended. The price is around 27 and you have to book. Shows at 21.00 and 23.30 hours. Tel 95 421 6981 / www.tablaolosgallos.com / email losgallos@terra.es
Hotel/Bar and Restaurant Suggestions
Hotels tend to be expensive in Seville
compared to the rest of Spain. It's essential that you stay in the old town and I
have no hesitation in recommending the Hotel Simon*, a 17th century
senorial house, 200 metres from the catedral. It was apparently Seville's best hotel
before the civil war and it now has an air of faded glory about it, with its leafy inner
courtyard, antique furnished breakfast room and grandiose marble staircase. It is
only a one-star and the rooms can be a little disappointing in terms of size and view so I
would ask for a room towards the top of the price range, but the staff are friendly and
accommodating and they serve breakfast til 11.30!!!
Hotel Simon, c/Garcia Vinuesa 19; tel 95 4226660, fax 95 4562241(www.sol.comysimon@estanciases.es). Double room with bath 55-70; breakfast 4.
Tapas in Seville
Tapas in Seville don't follow the usual 'glass case rule' (tapas) so don't be put off going into a bar just because you can't see much on offer. They will all serve tapas; look for their menu. Another thing: the portions seem to be twice the size of the rest of the country! Generally a media racion (half portion) will be a heaped teaplate - so it's best to ask the barman before you order "Como es una racion?". A couple of drinks will cost around 3 and in the older bars the barman will chalk your bill on the bar - be amazed that you and dozens of others will come and go from the bar and he will always remember which bill is yours!
In Seville you will not be
disappointed, tapas-speaking, whichever bar you choose, but you have to make your way to
El Rinconcillo, c/Gerona, apparently the place where tapas began.
The interior is a dark atmospheric, old-style bodega. Choose your tapas by way of
the menu on the bar and watch the barman chalk up your bill on the bar top.
El Kiosko de las Flores was a popular bar just across the river in Triano next to the Puente Isabel with a great view of the Giralda, but since moving to c/Betis just opposite the Torre de Oro (golden tower) has lost it's casual atmosphere and become more restauranty.
Bar Tino is tucked away in c/Tarifa
and ideal for a break from shopping. Tapas are good - particularly the
ham and cheese - and a G&T will set you back 3.
Cerveceria Giralda on Mateos Gago, 1, gets a mention in all of the guide books. The atmosphere is good and it's always packed, but is a bit on the pricy side and there wasn't much in the way of choice of tapas when I went. Perhaps I'll try it again next time!
Lizarran,
c/Javier Lasso de la Vega, is a chain that serves 'montaditos' (things
on bread). You help yourself to what you want, preserving the cocktail
sticks so that the waiter can calculate the price of what you have eaten at the
end! Round cocktail sticks 1.15 / flat ones 90
If you're looking for a 'proper' meal, try El
Buzo, c/Adriαn, where we had a good meal but for around £40 for 2, with 2
courses and wine.
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At the eastern end of the Costa del Sol, Nerja is a very British resort. There are plenty of bars owned by Sheila and Vic, et al. It's main claim to fame is its Balcon de Europa which is a 'balcony' formed on a rocky promontary with fine views out across the sea towards Africa. The beach is long and sandy and accommodation is more apartments and villas than hotels. The centre is backed by several large urbanizaciones which are well-kept and a popular place to stay as long as you don't mind the climb up the hill from the beach! (A bus service runs regularly down to the beach, but it's worth bearing in mind - in fact Nerja is reported as wheelchair-UNfriendly.)
Worth a visit at Nerja are its caves with paintings believed to be 20,000 years old. Tel 952 529520.
Noche de San Juan (23 June) sees a great beach party lasting the whole night. Families and groups of friends set up tents, build a bonfire, eat, drink and make merry. There's usually a band and dancing and stalls and beach bars with food and drink.
Bar
A recommended bar in town is Bar Delores on c/San Pedro, 2. You can
choose your seafood and they'll cook it in vast quantities. Main courses
range between 4.5 and
7.2.
This is a lively local bar which is
a real bit of Spain in a tourist resort. Watch out for the dog that runs
round in circles, barking, to celebrate the scoring of a goal on the TV!
Recommended
by Pat Aldridge.
Recommended
by Pat Aldridge.
Also worth a try - Marisqueria La
Marina on Plaza La Marina.
Recommended by Pat Aldridge.
TARIFA
West of Gibraltar, Tarifa is the most southerly point in Europe. It has a walled town with lots of character and a long, unspoilt, sandy beach which can be very windy. There is a diving centre in the town. Those of you who don't manage to book accommodation in Seville for Semana Santa could do worse than stay here: the festivities are very atmospheric with processions carried along narrow, candle-lit alleyways.
Hotel
A good budget place to stay is the Hostal Alameda with clean, pleasant rooms
with air conditioning and baths. It also has a restaurant attached. Hostal
Alameda, Paseo Alameda, 4. Tel 956 681181/Fax 956 680264. Recommended
by Pat Aldridge.
A few miles from Tarifa, heading towards Cadiz, is the archaelogical site of BAELO CLAUDIA, a roman city in a picturesque beach-side setting. Entrance is free with an EU passport.
BAELO
CLAUDIA - A BRIEF HISTORY
Baelo Claudia came
into existence at the end of the 2nd century B.C. Its origin and subsequent
development are closely associated with the north of Africa, being the maritime
link with what is now Tangier.
It
is also possible that it functioned as an administrative centre. However, it
was from the fish salting industry and the sauces derived
from it (garum)
that the settlement derived its income. These
circumstances led the city to achieve a certain importance, especially during
the reign of the emperor Claudius (41-54 A.D.) who granted it
the rank of Roman municipality.
The economic decline of Baelo Claudia began in the latter half of the second century, almost certainly due to the earthquake which devastated the city at this time. In the third century the city experienced a brief revival of trade, after which the city declined little by little until it was abandoned completely in the seventh century.
The importance of
the site lies in the fact that in Baelo Claudia all the elements that make up a
typical Roman city are preserved: the forum, the temples of the Capitol, the
temples of oriental character like the one dedicated to Isis, the basilica,
administrative buildings such as the curia, or the municipal archive, market,
theatre, warm baths, an industrial area, a complete city wall with the main
gates, streets and aqueducts etc. In no
other
part of the Iberian Peninsula can you obtain such a perfect idea of Roman town
planning as you can by visiting Baelo Claudia. Herein lies the real importance
of the site, framed as it is by a
spectacular natural setting.
Baelo Claudia, c/Bolonia, Tarifa. Tel 956 688530. email baelo.claudia@interbook.net / website www.junta-andalucia.es/cultura. Openings Tuesdays to Saturdays (1/7-15/9) 10.00am - 2.00pm and 5.00pm to 7.00pm; (16/9-30/6) 10.00am - 2.00pm and 4.00pm to 6.00pm. Sundays and Bank Holidays open mornings only. Closed Christmas and 1 and 6 January.
| ALMERIA | |
The province of Almeria is one of the
least touristy. It has some of Spain's hottest summer temperatures and hence some
fairly arid landscapes. It was here that Sergio Leone made his legendary spaghetti
westerns - and there is a Mini Hollywood park you can visit. West of Almeria town
the coast is totally ruined with plasticultura which covers the hills with acres
of polythene cloches - the ugliest thing you ever saw. The Cabo de Gata is a nature
park and so is totally unspoilt, although it can look a bit barren in full summer and the
sand is greyish.
ALMERIA
The city of Almeria merits a visit if you have plenty of time in the area - but not in high summer when it is unbearably hot. Drive right down towards the port and park in one of the signposted underground car parks on the right.
The city itself is a shabby, lived in sort of place but with reasonable shopping and pavement cafes on the Paseo de Almeria (Mango, Zara and some good shoe shops).
The Tourist Information office is opposite the sea on c/Parque de Nicolas Salmeron, 3 blocks west of Rambla Frederico Garcia.
The guide books will mention Plaza Vieja, an enclosed square with entrances on each corner. It's a quiet spot away from the traffic .. but some bright spark needs to set up a bar there! Don't go looking for a cafe on Plaza Purchena either - it is supposed to be the 'hub' of the city and is, in a Piccadilly Circus type of way. There are few interesting buildings except the Alcazaba which sits up on a hill overlooking the tangle of city below.
The
Alcazaba may not compare with Granada, but it is worth a visit as, unlike
Granada, you may find
yourself the only visitor. Follow the route on the guide around the
gardens and up to the towers at the highest level. From the castellated
ramparts you can look out over the town toward the sea
or, more interestingly, out over the gypsy area of town known as La Chanca.
This poor, run down area is in the process of being smartened up by the
government with the folk being persuaded away from their cave and slum dwellings
into smart new faceless apartments. Nevertheless you can still wile away
an interesting half hour watching and listening to all life drifting up to you
on the bars of a flamenco tune! From the walls you will also see a small
herd of gazelle (!) which belong to the wildlife rescue centre which studies
wildlife in danger. The entrance to the Alcazaba is on c/Almanzora and
entry is free to EU citizens.
The area around the alcazaba is noticeably poor and tourists are warned not to wander around after dark.
For tapas, try the wonderfully old Casa Puga on c/Jovellanos, redolent with old fashioned Andalucian atmosphere and fresh cooked food at 6 a racion.
SAN JOSE
Some 30 km north
of Almeria, off the Autovia de la Mediterraneon (E15) lies the resort of San
Jose. Small but growing - 2 or 3 cranes visible - San Jose makes a
pleasant day out. The beach (a Blue Flag) is good, yellow sand and framed
by mountains; the sea is crystal clear turquoise-blue (it shelves quite steeply
however), with a marina at one end. There is one hotel at the beachside -
the 4* Don Ignacio - but the majority of the accommodation seems to be
apartments. The beach has loos, lifeguards, bins and kayaks for
hire. The town has a couple of the usual beach shops and a 'funky' gift
shop that also sells loose beads and thongs for making your own souvenir
necklaces. There is a general market on Sunday mornings, which in common
with most Spanish markets, packs up at 2pm - just in time to go seek out a
restaurant for lunch!
Restaurants
I had a couple of memorable Sunday lunches here. The row of
bar/restaurants by the marina offers a variety of food - Spanish, pizza, crepes
and Italian - with a good view.
Recommended is
Cala
Chica, the smallest of the
row. We shared a racion of mussels for 6 which were generous in
number and divinely cooked in a fragrant lemon and lime 'jus' that we have been
unable to reproduce. The mixed salad was excellent, too. Oh and the Parrillada de Pescado looked fantastic at 2900 Pts (18) - share a racion.
We also ate at
Restaurant Malibu, the first restaurant in the row. The service was
ignorant
(I asked 5 times for a Coke ... and was then charged twice!) and the
paella de Mariscos was truly the worst I have ever sampled in 20 years' of
eating in Spain. Notwithstanding the shipload of salt it contained, the
outstanding flavour was that of artificial tomato sauce whose gelatinous
adherence rendered even the gambas inedible. At 1300 Pts(8) per person it
hardly represented a bargain! Oh and my salad was unwashed - one fly and 2
black bits - so I'll probably get dysentry now! It may be the first in
the row, but walk on by and choose one of the others!!
I also recommend Bar Vittoria,c/del Ancla the Italian ice cream/pizzaria on a corner opposite the beach. With its own pizza oven, the results are thin, crispy, real Italian pizzas ranging from 4 - 7.2. They are dinner plate huge. G&T 3.7.
CUEVAS DE ALMANZORA
There really are caves here! Follow the signs and pay a couple of quid to have a guided tour of a dwelling cave by the man that grew up in it. Well worth the money.
OTHER BEACHES
Following the coast round you come to Mojacar which is fairly well-known amongst the British, though I don't like it much. It's tourist popularity means tourist rip-off prices, especially in high season. The town inland is a 'white town' of cubic houses atop a hill (which books say is picturesque but to me looks like an artificial urbanisation) and there are plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops. Mojacar Playa on the coast is flat, backed by a string of soulless hotels and complexes. Better to drive north up the coast beyond Villaricos. You'll find totally undeveloped spots along the way where you can pull the car off the road and while away the hours alone (even in August) among the rocks and sand. The sea is perfectly clear. Villaricos itself is a fishing village that is undergoing rapid development. The cranes are very evident but there is a nice seaside paseo, a pleasure marina and harbour (with well-positioned bar) and a couple of bars and restaurants to chose from.
Garrucha itself is a pleasant traditional resort with a large and popular (with the Spanish) beach and plenty of restaurants serving reasonably priced meals (thanks to the Spanish - no ridiculously high foreign tourist prices for them!). It's a working port and harbour, famous for its 'gambas' - said to be the best in Andalucia. The north end of the resort is the prettier. There is a very good market here on Friday mornings: park down by the beach and walk UP. Once you've had a good wander, head back down to the front and go for lunch at Meson del Pescador, Paseo del Malecon, 104, tel 950 46 05 83 - excellent tapas at a good price and the only G&T you'll find with a beach view for 2.50!
Another good beach resort to visit is San Juan de los Terreros further north up the coast - but only in the summer; it's completely deserted out of season. The beaches are good and there are a couple of restaurants to choose from. I recommend Hostal La Venta de los Terreros, tel 950 466 000: the service may be a little brusque, but the loos are excellent, not to mention the food! Gambas 9, swordfish - excellent - 5.5, house salad with asparagus, egg, atun, boquerones, artichoke - 3 - share one between 2 as a first course. Excellent chips! The recent remodelling works have produced an attractive boulevard and beachside walk, lots more toilets and forced all of the chiringuitos (beach bars) to the back, just off the beach. They provide a good place to retire to for lunch, but prices aren't cheaper than the restaurants necessarily.
CELA
If you fancy something different, head out to the swimming pool lake at Cela which is fed by underground thermal springs. The temperature is a constant 26 degrees. It's free to use and there are 2 or 3 restaurant/bars to eat at, and some grass to sit on. It's set in lovely countryside ringed by mountains. The waters are supposed to be good for the bones! The bottom of the pool is pebbles so it's a good idea to take some beach sandals to swim in.
To reach it,
head west along the Huercal-Baza road, passing through Olula del Rio, Tijola and
just past Purchena take the right turn posted Lucar. At exactly 2 km from
the turn ignore the sign on the left
Termas de Cela - Prohibido banarse and carry on to a fork in the
road. Take the left fork, signposted Banos de Cela and follow the road
round.
SORBAS
This
pretty pueblo was left high and dry when the river running around it changed its
course and left it almost an island. Sorbas is a pottery centre and the
cheapest place to buy all sorts of ceramica and pots. There is a car park
at the entrance to the town, then walk up and follow the brown signs to the alfararia. There is a good bar on the quaint, orange tree lined main
square - we had 9 tapas and 4 drinks for 13.
If you don't mind driving,
take the route over the sierra to Nijar. The scener
y
is good and the mountains are awash with poppies and wild flowers in the spring.
It takes around 45 minutes.
NIJAR
Do visit Nijar, a pretty little town (you could do it on the way to San Jose)
famed for its ceramics, esparto basketware and 'jarapas' the rag and wool
rugs. The prices for these last are unbelievably good and you're bound to
be tempted. They look brilliant on Spanish ceramic floors.
| CORDOBA Hotel/bar suggestions Fiesta |
|
Cordoba
GETTING THERE
Cordoba is a good 3-4 hours'
drive from Malaga airport. If you have enough time I recommend flying into
Madrid and taking the AVE high speed train from Atocha station. A smooth,
super-quick journey which takes an hour and three quarters. It's so
efficient that you get a full refund if the train is more than 5 minutes
late! Take a look at the www.renfe.es to
get an idea of times; tickets can be booked in this country through Rail Europe
Direct on 08705 848848 / www.raileurope.co.uk.
LA
MEZQUITA
By far the main attraction is the phenomenal Mezquita. Enter via the
Patio de los Naranjos, (this is where the ticket booth is). In fact it's
pleasant to while away time in this pretty patio with its orange trees and
fountain any time as you don't have to pay for this bit.
Prepare
to be stunned by the inside of the Mezquita: you are greeted by the most amazing
forest of double-decker arches in alternate red brick and white marble
stripes. They are all perfectly aligned and an exact distance apart, which
says much about the architectural and building techniqu
es in 785 AD when it was
started. The arches are mostly very restored; there are some in older
state and it's nice to see the mixture. Imagine the 100s of worshippers on
their prayer mats beneath.
Bang
in the middle of this overwhelming Moorish place is a huge Christian nave, the
fiddly renaissance detail clashing with the clean lines of the
Islamic.
At the opposite end to the entrance is the Mihrab, or holy Moorish 'altar', which is an intricately carved marble work of art. This would have been the most important part of the Islamic church, but now all the additions to the interior mean you find it almost accidently!
Open
Mon - Sat 10.30 - 19.30 and Sun 14.00 - 19.00, 6 (this ticket also gains
you entrance to the Episcopal Palace opposite, where the tourist office is).
ALCAZARES REALES
The Alcazar is known as the Palacio
de los Reyes Cristianos - Ferdinand and Isabel, the great uniters of
Spain. They received Columbus here before he set off for the Americas, and
there is a statue commemorating the event in the gardens.
Not
much to see inside (the building was used as a prison until quite recent times)
the main attraction is the lo
Open Tues - Sat 10.00 - 14.00 and Sun 09.30 - 15.00, 3.
MUSEO TAURINO (BULLFIGHT MUSEUM)
Located in the Juderia, it's worth a visit to this museum even if you don't think you're into bullfighting. There are exhibits to all the Cordoban greats, including the so-called greatest of all, El Manolete. You can see the entire skin of the bull that killed him in 1947 as well as his blood-stained suit of lights.
Open
Tues - Sat 10.00 - 14.00 and 17.00 - 19.00; 3.
Shopping
The best shopping forms a rectangle leading up from Plaza Tendillas (a nice
place to have an outside copa or 2) along c/Jose Cruz Conde, left onto
Ronda de las Tejares (note Corte Ingles on the right) and back down Gran
Capitan. Plenty of good value shoe shops to choose from!
Hotel/Bar
suggestions
A great place to stay is the Maimonides Hotel
right opposite the
Mezquita. Refurbished in 1996, it is stylish
and clean cut. The
staff are really helpful (no problem running to get us a drink at 11.45pm!) and
the breakfast is a good buffet. One thing to bear in mind though is, being
as it is a stone's throw from the Mezquita, the bells in the tower chime on the
hour from 7 am onwards! Saves packing an alarm clock though! Hotel
Maimonides Torrijos 4 Cordoba. Tel
957471500 / Fax: 957483803. Double room with bath 90-102. Or bookable through the online travel co www.otc-uk.com.
A good budget hostal is the Hostal San Francisco in the old town to the east of the Mezquita. Rooms have air conditioning and baths. Hostal San Francisco, c/San Fernando 24. Tel 957 472716. Recommended by Pat Aldridge.
| JAEN Cazorla National Park Hotel suggestions |
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Jaen
province is olive oil country; the distinctive rolling bobbly landscape is due
to the hundreds of thousands of olive trees. This province has one of the
few Denominaciones
for its oil and wherever you travel the cooking reflects this. Jaen is
also one of Andalucia's least touristy provinces, so there'll be plenty of
opportunity to practise your Spanish.
GETTING THERE
Perhaps the reason Jaen remains little visited by the rest of Europe is that you have to have the will to get there! It is served by good motorway links from several international airports with approximate driving times as follows: Madrid (335 km) - approx 3 hours; Malaga (209 km) - under 2 hours; Sevilla (242 km) - approx 2 hours. Cordoba and Granada are both around 1 hour's drive.
JAEN
The city has a cathedral, a castle, a Parador and shopping! The best shopping is on and around c/Estacion, where there is a Corte Ingles and good clothes and shoe shops. You'll come across more 'individual' shops as you wander around the old part of town. Stop and have a drink in shady Plaza San Francisco, in the shadow of the cathedral - Bar del Posito still provides a free tapa with your beer and G&T (5)!
The
arab baths, on Plaza Santa Luisa de Marillac at the north end of
c/Martinez Molina, are said to be the largest of those that can be visited in
Spain. They were built in the XI century and then used as the foundations
for the Palace of don Fernando de Torres y Portugal at the end of the XVI
century. They were discovered in 1913 and the restoration, interrupted by
the Spanish Civil War, was completed in 1984. 
The Castillo de Catalina affords fantastic views 5km up over the town. It opens at 10 am and entrance is free - if you can find it! Driving to it is more than a challenge in a city with missing/inaccurate signs. (Entering the city on the N323, turn left to the bullring and follow the road upwards, past the convento.) The castle, of Moorish origens (this being frontier country with the Moors for years) has been heavily restored and now houses an exhibition centred around its use as a garrison and prison of war by the French in the Peninsular war. You can wander at your own pace but there are guides to give you more information on the prison cells and a mini film about a captured Spanish guerilla .. oh and several talking rocks!! Entrance is free to EU citizens. The Parador occupies the eastern end of the castle. A controversy now, I believe it demonstrates Franco's will to turn the economy of his country around. Having seen so many historical treasures left to ruins in Spain, the Parador makes the best use of compromise.
It strikes you in Baeza that you may not be in Andalucia at all! Its well preserved Renaissance architecture reminds of the Cantabrian town of Santillana in the far north. Baeza is a pleasant hour's wander around its picturesque old town, wondering at the very age of its monuments. The tourist office is in the Plaza de los Leones, with its lion fountain so old that the lions look like crouching ferrets!
Ubeda mimics Baeza on a grander style. Its old town is a warren of streets (most of which are one way) which make arriving by car a challenge. There is free parking on the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (if you can find it!).
CAZORLA
Cazorla
town is a pleasant enough, unspectacular town east of Jaen; its main claim to
fame is that it is the gateway to the Parque Natural de Cazorla. It has
shops, bars, traffic and the world and his wife and 6 kids (in August
anyway). 
PARQUE NATURAL DE CAZORLA is a natural park that takes in the sierras of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas. It is a temperate haven in the height of summer.
As you climb
up into the park, leaving the mile upon mile of bobbly olive groves below, you
begin to recognise other more familiar trees: poplar, willow, holly. This
parque natural is the largest such designated area in Spain and stretches north
to south between Genave and Pozo Alcon. A series of mountain peaks (the
highest at 1848m is Gillio - pronounced hillyo!) interspersed with lush
and dense valleys, rivers and reservoirs. It holds the source (nacimiento)
of several rivers, including the Segura, Borossa and the Guadalquivir; this last
is not worth seeking out as a sight in August, when your tedious 20k+ journey
may only reveal an unspectacular trickle. Once in the park, signposting is
pretty good, though bear in mind that any distances covered will be at a maximum
speed of 50k on the twisty roads. Plan yourself a car tour to get the feel
of the park, taking in a couple of the tiny hilltop villages. 
Segura de la Sierra, for example, sits high atop a hill, presided over by an even higher castle. Segura is one of only 4 olive oil producing areas in Spain that has been officially recognised for quality with a DO (Denominacion), so make sure you buy some - the acid content is particularly low: <0.4. There's a tourist shop with free maps and leaflets and a range of craft-type souvenirs, including olive oil in a variety of sizes and containers. There is also a bar whose terrace affords a fantastic view - just the spot for a refreshing cerveza/G&T! Hornos is also pleasant. La Iruela, just outside the park boundary, has the ruins of a Knights Templar castle above it, which you can drive up to and then actually climb up onto. Not for the faint-hearted, vertiginous or mothers with children of any age - no handrails, no barriers, no officials, no signs; just uneven, ruined steps, sheer drops and the temptation to climb as high as you can! There are also the ruins of a chruch burned down by the French in the Peninsular war.
The main reason for coming to the parque is to enjoy the fresh air and countryside, so ditch the car and plan to do some walking. There are lots of marked footpaths to wander as well as set routes. The Lonely Planet 'Walking in Spain' book details 3. The most popular is the Rio Borossa Valley walk along this pretty river's course up to its source, a total of 12k (and then 12k back!) The Lonely Planet guide defines it as an 'easy-medium' walk: the first part is certainly easy and, if you're a plimsols and vest type of walker, you might like to tote a towel and swimsuit, do a bit of walking and find a spot in the river in which to swim. The last part of the walk, after the hydroelectric plant (see below) requires a deal of determination, decent walking shoes and fit thighs - VERY Medium! The first part of the walk is the prettiest: the river has oodles of trout, plenty of rocks and pools of varying depths. There are several spring pipes by the side of the path, so as long as you take a bottle, you won't go short of drinking water. If you are going to try the whole walk (detailed below) do set off early and take a picnic and book, with a view to spending the hottest hours relaxing under the shade of a tree at the river's source, before starting the return journey. Most of the guide books warn of crowds during Easter and high summer, but we found that the level of people was not overbearing in August.
The
Borrossa Valley Walk
Drive to the Torre del Vinagre Centre (well signposted) and at the Centre,
drive down the turning opposite, signposted Centro Electrico. Drive
across the Guadalquivir river and park the car in one of the parking areas near
the piscifactoria (fish farm).
Once
parked continue on foot across the bridge over the Rio Borrossa.
Immediately on the right is the start of the walk, a wide track following the
river on its left. Follow this track for around 45 minutes, crossing the
river twice. Then the track opens out into a wide area with a path leading
of to the right (signposted Cerrado de Elias tacked to a tree). Following
this path as it cuts through a gorge along the river's course. It rejoins
the main track after some 30 minutes. From here, it's about another 45
minutes to the Centro Electrico, a small hydro electric station. This is
the last place to fill your water bottle at a spring pipe. From here on,
you need some energy! The path climbs steadily up for some 45 minutes
passing a high waterfall; the last part zigzagging steeply up towards a tunnel
through the mountains. The tunnel follows the water channel and is narrow
and profoundly dark in some places, others lit by holes in the side. The
first tunnel is some 5 minutes long; then 5 minutes in the air and then another
much shorter tunnel. A very short while after this, you arrive at the
embalse (reservoir). Follow a narrow path tot he left of the reservoir,
following the sound of the water, to arrive at the source of the river - an
ideal place to slip off those boots and refresh those hot feet! The water
is icy: painful after 10 seconds . . in August!
Hotel Suggestions Ubeda:
There is a Parador here
too or the stylish Maria de Molina Hotel on Plaza del Ayuntamiento (tel 953
795356) www.hotel-maria-de-molina.com Cazorla:
The parador within the Parque Natural reminds of a hunting lodge (tel
953 727075 - double 95 per night). Perched on a lush hillside, with
wonderful views from the bar terrace, it's parador comfortable, as If
the parador is full (you need to book well ahead for August) you could try the Hotel
Montana*** at Arroyo Frio, near La Iruela (tel 953 727011 / www.hmontana.com
/ email: reservas@hmontana.com.
A pleasant, clean hotel. The rooms are large, though not particularly
stylish, but there's a pool, bar and restaurant, and they may have availability
at short notice. Double 60. What's more, unlike the parador which
is in the middle of nowhere, there are a couple of other restaurant/bars around
it, meaning you may choose to eat at the hotel rather being forced to.
Jaen: The
Parador Castillo de Catalina is a touch of luxury (someone will secretly turn
down your bed for you!) with excellent food centred on olive oil (the olive
oil ice cream is a must!). Double rooms are around 100 a night; menu
del dia 22. www.parador.es
you would
expect (though not quite as lovely as the one at Jaen), and has a swimming
pool. The restaurant relies mainly on meat and game (which may not be what
you fancy in the heat of August!). Being in the very heart of the Parque,
it is not unusual to see deer wandering around - we had a room at the end of the
building, close to the perimeter, and several adult fallow deer and fawns passed
right by the window. We spent so long watching them and photographing
them, that by the time we got down to what had been a deserted swimming pool,
there wasn't a sun lounger to be had!